14-Day Off-Road Trip Through Georgia (the Country): Kutaisi, Adjara, the Sea, Svaneti and Back

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The trip we recommend to our own friends and family, put together after seven years of living and travelling in western Georgia. Fourteen days, one 4x4, a loop from Kutaisi through the Lesser and the Greater Caucasus, with the places to sleep, eat and stop, and a map link for every one of them.

Introduction

Hey everybody! A quick introduction: I am Jonas from Belgium and I have been living in Georgia (the country in the Caucasus) for over seven years. I had the crazy idea of opening a glamping in the mountainous part of Adjara, which is still quite unknown and not recommended in most blogs, while in my opinion it is one of the best regions to discover.

In Georgia there is so much to see that it is hard to know where to go. That is why I wrote this post: the best route to take and the top places to visit when you have two weeks and land in Kutaisi. It is the trip we recommend to our personal friends and family, put together after seven years of living and travelling in Georgia, especially the western part. I hope it gives you some direction. Let's dive in!

Disclaimer

We are not professional bloggers, so we have no affiliate links. The trip in this post is exactly the one we recommend to close friends and family. The only disclaimer: we recommend Glamping Tago, which is our own project. It is our baby, we have poured our hearts and souls into it, and we think you will find it worth visiting.

Who is this trip for?

• 4x4 adventure. This itinerary is made for people who have, or rent, a 4x4 and are looking for adventure, which in our opinion is the best way to discover Georgia. The main focus is adventure, but there are cultural and relaxing days as well.
• Mid-range hotels and restaurants. You can travel Georgia on a very low budget, but we think it is worth spending the extra buck sometimes, because you get a lot of value in return. We picked the best and most authentic places on the route. Hotel price range: 40-60 euro per room. Restaurant price range: 8-15 euro per meal. Travelling as a couple, expect around 60 euro per person per day for accommodation and food.

Car rental

Georgia has a lot of car rental companies, and honestly a lot of really good ones. In our experience the smaller companies have much better prices, almost half, and the same or better service.

• Best car rental: Carrentingeorgia
• Best with rooftop tent: Overlando
• Best premium: Martyna Z Gruzji

The route at a glance

Day 1: arrival in Kutaisi

The day of your arrival. A lot of flights land quite late in Kutaisi, so we do not plan much: pick up the car (all rental companies offer airport pickup), find the hotel and eat at our favourite place in Kutaisi, Papa Vero. Reserve, because it is often full. After dinner get some good rest, because the next day is a lot busier.

Kutaisi has a lot to offer (it is our favourite city in Georgia), but you are probably itching to discover the mountains, so we do not spend much time here at the start. At the end of the trip there is more time for the best of Kutaisi.

Where to sleep: Hotel History, in the centre close to the cathedral, so you can simply walk home after dinner. The owners are super nice and, as the name says, the house has a huge history.

Where to eat

• Lunch: Palaty. A cosy spot in the old city near the White Bridge, friendly, with unique local dishes, two floors, live jazz and a good wine bar. No reservation needed at lunch.
• Dinner: Papa Vero. Our personal favourite, we keep circling back. The meat platter is our dish, perfect for sharing, and the cocktails are great. Reservations are required, on WhatsApp.
• Bonus: Bakery Sanimusho. If you do not want to eat out fancy, this is unbeatable value: much more than a bakery, a buffet where you pay per 100 grams. Our place for a quick or cheap meal.

Sightseeing

• Bagrati Cathedral: the perfect place to watch the sunset over all of Kutaisi and the mountains you are about to explore, and to admire the medieval architecture inside.
• White Bridge: on the way to Papa Vero, cross the pedestrian bridge over the Rioni, the main river of the region. At night it is lit up and very cosy.

Day 2: Zekari pass, sulphur baths and the observatory

Day two takes one of the most beautiful, underrated and untouched roads in Georgia, in our opinion. I even proposed to Lisa there. On top of the Zekari pass we have a picnic, then descend to Abastumani for old Soviet-style sulphur baths, and end the day at the Abastumani observatory. Before all that we stock up on picnic food, and there is no better place for it than the famous Kutaisi Green Bazaar.

Where to sleep: Abastumani Residence. Abastumani is known for sulphur baths with a reputation for healing tuberculosis; it was a popular Soviet resort town, fell into disrepair after the Soviet Union and is being revived now. We stay here because Abastumani also has an amazing Soviet observatory that still works today and is, obviously, most interesting at night. The hotel is walking distance from the observatory, and while the price is a bit above budget, dinner and breakfast are included.

Where to eat

• Breakfast: Cafe Fleur. It is not always easy to find a place open early in Georgia; Cafe Fleur is one of the few in Kutaisi open from 9 a.m., and the breakfast is delicious.
• Lunch: picnic on the pass. Eat what you bought at the Green Bazaar on top of Zekari; locals built tables up there, covered from the sun.
• Bonus: Sak'almakhe. We stumbled on it on the way to the proposal: a trout farm and restaurant in nature. Lower-budget dishes exist, but if you have the budget go for the trout, it comes straight from the farm; with so much mountain water constantly refreshing the ponds, places like this are ideal for trout.
• Dinner: at Abastumani Residence, included in the price.

Activities

• Soviet sulphur baths. After the long road, relax in the baths. When I say Soviet I mean really Soviet: basic, not luxurious, a surreal experience. At the time of writing one part had been renovated and is more expensive; go to the non-renovated part for the real thing.
• Star watching at the observatory. Soft and full, you can go to every child's dream. The Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory, from 1932, was the first alpine observatory in the USSR and has a fascinating history. On Mount Kanobili, it is a great spot for stargazing and for Georgia's contribution to astronomy. Night tours last 60-90 minutes, show the telescopes in action and the museum, cost 20 GEL for adults and 10 GEL for students, and run from March to December. Call ahead to book: abao.ge, 599 28 14 67 or astrotour@abao.ge.

Sightseeing

• Green Bazaar and the Kolkhida relief. Go after 10 a.m. The main floor has fresh herbs, dried chillies, seasonal fruit and vegetables, the upper level a spice shop that is a feast for the eyes, the central hall cheese, dairy and flour, and outside more fruit and honey. Do not miss the Soviet-era Kolkhida bas-relief on the facade, a piece of art deeply tied to the region's history.
• Zekari pass. Where I proposed to Lisa and one of our all-time favourite places in Georgia, probably one of the most untouched roads in the country, with horses roaming freely. Take the small detour to Ivlitis Mta, that road is even more beautiful.

Day 3: Vardzia and Rabati castle

After the adventure of day two we sniff up some culture in one of the must-sees of Georgia: Vardzia, a huge cave complex from the time of Queen Tamar. Then we sleep in Akhaltsikhe and visit the huge Rabati castle. By the end of the day you will understand how rich Georgia's history is. Go to sleep early, the next day is full of adventure.

Where to sleep: Hotel Julia, a cosy gem in Akhaltsikhe, steps from Rabati Castle. The hosts are incredibly kind, the rooms comfortable, the breakfast huge and delicious. Easily one of the best places to stay in the area.

Where to eat

• Breakfast: at Abastumani Residence, included.
• Lunch: Restaurant Vardzia. The go-to spot in the area; prices are a bit higher, but the riverside setting with views of the caves makes it worth it. Good food, friendly service, the best option for a nice meal in Vardzia.
• Dinner: Restaurant Kessane. Super cosy, authentic Georgian food in a garden: trout, eggplant with walnuts, their take on ratatouille. The hosts share stories and make you feel at home.

Sightseeing

• Vardzia. An incredible cave monastery carved into the cliffs 800 years ago, with over 6,000 rooms including living quarters, chapels and a throne room. The walk involves a lot of stairs, but the views and the history are worth it. Entrance 15 GEL; the shuttle bus up to the site for 2 GEL is highly recommended on hot days. A guide or audio guide helps you appreciate the architecture.
• Rabati Castle. A fascinating blend of history and architecture in Akhaltsikhe, recently restored, with a mosque and a church inside, gardens, fountains and views from the top. Entrance 18 GEL, museum included.
• Zeda Vardzia. A peaceful spot above the main cave complex, worth the detour: hardly any tourists, an old church, no electricity, no noise. The place to unwind.
• Apnia sulphur bath. Simple, almost sketchy-looking and hidden with no signs: a small shed with a warm mineral pool at around 40 C. 10 GEL per person, and the Kura river next door to cool down. A unique, off-the-beaten-path stop if you have time.

Day 4: mountainous Adjara, lakes and fortresses

Today we cross from the dry Samtskhe-Javakheti region into lush green Adjara over the Goderdzi pass. On the way we stop at the Shuamta lakes, the ideal spot for a picnic and a swim, then climb to Khikhani fortress, the most spectacular place in upper Adjara. Then on to Glamping Tago to wind down in the sauna. Yes, a long day, but on day five you can just chill.

Route notes

• Google Maps works until the top of the Goderdzi pass. After that use Maps.me (or Organic Maps), because the roads from Goderdzi to the Shuamta lakes and Khikhani fortress are not on Google Maps.
• Border permit. The route runs along the Turkish border and needs a permit. It is easy to get, but inform the army beforehand on WhatsApp: +995 595 02 90 03. The army post is after the Shuamta lakes on the way to the fortress.

Where to sleep: Glamping Tago. Obviously I am biased, this is my baby and the place that made us stay in Georgia. I could talk for hours; it is best to discover it yourself. glampingtago.ge/glamping

Where to eat

• Breakfast: at Hotel Julia, included.
• Lunch: picnic at the Shuamta lakes, high in the mountains. There are no restaurants after Goderdzi, so stock up in Akhaltsikhe or at Goderdzi. On a rainy day try Guesthouse Bako, just after the army post, a small detour from the fortress and a great meal; contact them the day before, +995 593 47 05 40.
• Dinner: the vegetarian buffet at Glamping Tago, where you refill your energy after the day.

Sightseeing

• Shuamta lakes. A hidden treasure of Khulo at over 2,000 m. Most people head for Beshumi or Goderdzi; few realise these serene lakes are a short drive or hike away. Incredible views with Khikhani castle in the background, untouched, no tourist attractions, just nature.
• Khikhani fortress. A fantastic spot for a hike with a bit of history. The climb is steep and takes about two hours; at the top, stunning views and the rugged charm of restored towers among the ruins. Go on a clear day, and check in with the border guards first.

Activities: a swim in the Shuamta lakes to refresh halfway through the journey; the sauna tent at Glamping Tago after the day; a campfire session or a movie night. If the sky is clear we watch the stars; if it rains we organise a movie night, and you will highly likely fall asleep 30 minutes in.

Day 5: rest day at Glamping Tago

Nothing is mandatory today. Sleep in, have the breakfast buffet, and pick from what the ridge offers:

• Walk. Five marked routes start at the camp: the village walk through Tago, the Lonely Tree, Green Hill, Otsinari lake and the Skhalta monastery. All on glampingtago.ge/hiking, with maps and times. A guide costs 75 GEL for a half day, 100 GEL for a full day.
• Jeep day. If you skipped Khikhani yesterday, or want more: a jeep tour to Green Lake, the Goderdzi pass or Khikhani is 400 GEL per car for one destination, 600 GEL for the big tour. See tours.
• Learn something. A Georgian cooking class is 60 GEL per person (100 GEL for the long version with a full meal), the Jara honey activity on site 75 GEL, a painting class 50 GEL, a private yoga session 100 GEL.
• Do nothing. The sauna is free for staying guests in the evening; in the day a private session is 150 GEL. The yurt restaurant serves lunch and dinner, fully vegetarian, and there is a village guesthouse for a meat supra if you miss it.

Eat dinner early and pack the car in the evening: day six is the wildest driving of the trip.

Day 6: over the mountains to the sea via Bakhmaro

Today you leave Adjara over the top rather than down the valley. From Khulo the village track climbs past Ghorjomi and over the ridge into highland Guria, through the yaylas (summer pastures with wooden huts) to Bakhmaro. This is a proper 4x4 track, unsealed the whole way, and one of the best drives in western Georgia. Count on five hours or more for the mountain section, only in dry weather, and download the route on Maps.me beforehand. Ask at reception the evening before: we know whether the track is open and can call ahead.

Bakhmaro (map) is Georgia's highest alpine resort at about 2,050 m, a village of wooden houses with bright facades on both sides of a valley, alive for two summer months and buried in snow the rest of the year. Its season ends with a horse race on 19 August. From Bakhmaro the road down to Chokhatauri is asphalt (52 km), and from there it is about an hour and a half to the coast.

Alternative if the track is closed or wet: drive down the valley from Khulo to Batumi on the main road (about 2 hours from the camp) and follow the coast north; you lose the mountain crossing and gain a lunch in Batumi.

Where to sleep: by the sea at Ureki (black magnetic sand, a shallow warm beach) or Shekvetili, where the pine forest meets the beach. Both have plenty of small family hotels along the shore; pick one with a garden and a grill. After six days of mountains, the sea at sunset is the point.

Where to eat: in Bakhmaro, the cafes serve khachapuri and soup in summer; take a picnic anyway in case it is quiet. On the coast, any of the beach restaurants in Ureki does grilled fish and Adjarian khachapuri; on the way past Ozurgeti, Gurian food is worth a stop for the walnut and spice dishes.

Day 7: the long drive to Ushguli

A driving day, and a spectacular one. From the coast go north to Zugdidi (about an hour and a half), then up the Enguri gorge to Mestia: 92 km of winding road, roughly 3.5 to 4 hours, with the reservoir, the gorge and the first Svan towers. From Mestia the 45 km to Ushguli take another 1.5 to 2 hours; the road has been largely sealed since 2024 but the last stretch is still rough in places, so a 4x4 is recommended and it is slower after rain. Leave the coast early, eat lunch in Mestia, and arrive in Ushguli with daylight to spare. If you prefer to split it, sleep in Mestia and drive up in the morning.

Ushguli (map) is a cluster of four hamlets at about 2,100 m under Mount Shkhara, Georgia's highest peak, and one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in Europe; its stone defensive towers are part of the UNESCO-listed Upper Svaneti. Walk up to the Lamaria church above the village before dinner.

Where to sleep: family guesthouses in Chazhashi and Chvibiani, the upper hamlets, with dinner and breakfast included; most take bookings through the usual platforms. Book ahead in July and August.

Where to eat: at your guesthouse. Svan dinners are kubdari (meat pie), tashmijabi (cheesy potato) and lots of the local salt; a shared table with the family is the experience.

Days 8 and 9: two days of hiking from Ushguli

No driving. Two day hikes from the village, chosen so that one is long and flat and one is short and steep. All start from Ushguli and need no guide in good weather; take water, layers and rain gear.

• Day 8, Shkhara glacier. 16 km there and back along the Enguri river to the foot of the glacier under the Shkhara wall, about 5 hours, 510 m of gain, mostly flat and suitable for everyone. Jeeps can now drive part of the valley, so a shorter version is possible, but the walk is the point. Picnic at the glacier.
• Day 9, a viewpoint. Pick by legs: Tamar's castle, 4 km and 1.5 to 2 hours to a lonely ruined tower 200 m above the village, the easiest; the Chubedishi viewpoint, 7.4 km, 3 to 4 hours and 814 m of gain, with some of the best views of the Khalde wall and the village; or the Gorvashi pass, 6.8 km and 4 hours with 840 m of gain, for panoramas of the main ridge of the Greater Caucasus.

Rest days for the car: check tyres and fuel, because the next stretch crosses a 2,620 m pass. Fill up in Mestia if you did not on the way in; Ushguli has no petrol station.

Day 10: Ushguli to Tvishi over the Zagari pass

Instead of going back the way you came, leave Ushguli east over the Zagari pass (2,620 m) into Lower Svaneti. The 73 km to Lentekhi were sealed in 2024 and now take about two hours in a normal car, with the best high-mountain scenery of the whole trip and almost no traffic. Stop at the top; the views over the Svaneti range are the reward for the climb.

From Lentekhi continue down the Tskhenistskali and Rioni valleys to Tvishi (map), a village on a steep bank 400 m above the Rioni in Lechkhumi. It is the home of Tvishi, one of Georgia's most recognisable semi-sweet white wines, made only from the Tsolikouri grape and protected as an appellation. There are no tasting rooms: a wine visit here means a family courtyard, a meal and the family's own wine, arranged through your guesthouse. Ask them the day before.

Where to sleep: a family guesthouse in Tvishi or the neighbouring Alpana, with dinner; this is one of the most personal wine experiences in the country, so stay with a family that makes its own.

Day 11: Tvishi, Okatse canyon and Prometheus cave

Back into the lowlands of Imereti for the karst day. From Tvishi it is about an hour and a half to the Okatse canyon, where a metal walkway hangs from the canyon wall above the river; entrance 17.25 GEL, and note that the canyon closes in rain. Ten minutes further, the Kinchkha waterfall drops in two steps into a pool and is free to visit. In the afternoon, Prometheus cave near Tskaltubo: a 1.4 km lit walk through halls of stalactites, 23 GEL, plus 17.25 GEL for the boat ride out on the underground river if the water level allows. The sites are open 10:00 to 18:00 and closed on Mondays, so plan day 11 for another day of the week.

Where to sleep: Kutaisi again, and back to Hotel History if they have a room; you know the way to Papa Vero.

Days 12 and 13: Kutaisi and its surroundings

Two days for the city we like best, at a slower pace.

• Gelati monastery (map), the UNESCO-listed academy and church of King David the Builder, 10 km from town, and Motsameta (map) on its cliff above the river gorge, a short drive away. Gelati has been closed for conservation works for a while; check before you go, and do Motsameta and Bagrati regardless.
• Sataplia (map): dinosaur footprints, a small cave and a glass viewing platform over the Colchic forest, 17.25 GEL.
• Martvili canyon (map): the green canyon 45 minutes west of town, entrance around 20-33 GEL plus 20 GEL for the short boat ride between the walls. Also closed on Mondays.
• Tskaltubo (map): the Soviet spa town 10 km from Kutaisi, with its abandoned sanatoriums and bathhouses; a strange and photogenic afternoon.
• The city: the Green Bazaar again for presents, the old town around the White Bridge, the Colchis fountain on the main square, and a last dinner at Papa Vero (reserve). If you are with someone who likes a bargain, a second visit to Bakery Sanimusho.

Day 14: flight home

Kutaisi airport is 20 km west of the city, about 30 minutes. Return the car there (all three rental companies do airport drop-off), and fly home with a phone full of towers, passes and lakes.

Before you go

• Best months: June to September for the passes and the Svaneti hikes; the Bakhmaro track and the Zagari road are usually open from June to mid-October. May and October work for the lowland days but the high tracks may be closed.
• Maps: Google Maps for asphalt, Maps.me or Organic Maps for the tracks (Goderdzi to Khikhani, the Bakhmaro crossing). Download the regions offline.
• Cash: small guesthouses, the baths and the picnic markets take cash; ATMs in every town.
• Driving: the 4x4 is for the Goderdzi tracks, the Bakhmaro crossing and the last kilometres to Ushguli; everything else is asphalt. Never drive a mountain track at night.
• Questions: message us on WhatsApp or hello@glampingtago.ge. We drive these roads every season and will tell you what is open. See you in Tago.