Mountainous Adjara
the hidden gem of Georgia

Mountainous Adjara is perhaps one of the most underrated area’s of Georgia. In this post we will share all the hidden gems with you!

Up until now, this breath-taking area remained mostly off the radar for international travellers, mainly because of challenging roads and a lack of guest accommodations. But even without the usual places to stay, you could and still can always count on the locals to welcome you with open arms. This is one of those rare places where genuine Georgian hospitality is still alive.

Now, let’s explore more about this undiscovered treasure in Georgia!

About

History

Bronze ages

The history of mountainous Adjara is as rich and layered as its landscapes, stretching back to the Bronze Age when the area was first settled. Remarkable ancient sites like the Thilvani Menhir, a towering 20-meter-high megalith, and the Kaloto Altar are testaments to the region’s early civilization, especially in the Khulo area, hinting at its pre-Christian roots. These ancient monuments, believed to be connected to funeral rituals, lay the groundwork for a history that spans millennia.

Middle ages

As time marched on, the Middle Ages saw the area flourish, evidenced by the numerous churches, castles, and medieval arched bridges that dot the landscape, marking a period of significant building and cultural development.

Ottoman empire

The 16th century brought with it the shadow of the Ottoman Empire, which, in its quest for expansion, swept through various regions, including Georgian lands along the eastern coast of the Black Sea. Adjara, and particularly Khulo, fell under Ottoman influence, leading to a significant shift in the region’s cultural and religious landscape as it was converted to Islam. This period deeply impacted the fabric of Adjara’s society, with the population largely adopting Islam.

Russian conquest

However, the Russian conquest in the 1870s brought severe oppression of Islam, causing a dramatic decrease in Adjara’s Muslim population. This dark period saw the area struggle under the harsh Russian rule, which sought to suppress and control the religious practices of its people.

Soviet era

The 20th century was no less tumultuous. In April 1929, the Soviet era cast a long shadow over mountainous Adjara as Muslim villagers rose against compulsory collectivization and religious persecution, only for the revolt to be brutally quashed by Soviet troops, leading to mass deportations.

Natural disasters

The late 20th and early 21st centuries were marked by natural disasters, with floods and avalanches triggering further migration from the mountainous villages, reshaping the demographic and social landscape once again.

Khikhani fortress

Amidst these waves of change stands the Khikhani Fortress, built in the twelfth century by Queen Tamar. This formidable stronghold, accessible only by a winding serpentine path and a 40-minute walk, was a beacon of defense against enemies until the 19th century. Its remnants, including towers, walls, a bakery, wine storage, a water well, and a church, are a vivid reminder of Adjara’s strategic importance and the resilience of its people.

The story of mountainous Adjara is one of endurance, culture, and transformation. Through centuries of political shifts, invasions, and cultural changes, the region has preserved its unique heritage, offering visitors not just scenic beauty but a deep, rich history that continues to fascinate and inspire.

Timeline

Bronze Age: Early habitation evidenced by the Thilvani Menhir and Kaloto Altar, indicating civilization in Khulo.
12th Century: Queen Tamar builds the Khikhani Fortress, a strategic stronghold featuring various monuments.
Middle Ages: Construction of churches, castles, and bridges marks further development.
16th Century: The Ottoman Empire’s expansion leads to the Islamization of Adjara, including Khulo.
1870s: The region’s Islamized population declines due to Russian oppression.
1929: Soviet suppression of a revolt against compulsory collectivization and religious persecution, followed by mass deportations.
1990s-2000s: Natural disasters cause migration from various mountainous villages.
Post-2000s: Significant migration to cities as the local population declines, driven by the lack of employment opportunities and access to quality education and healthcare.

Current state

Mountainous Adjara today is witnessing a significant transformation driven by the rise in tourism, economic shifts, and social changes. The region’s natural beauty continues to draw visitors, leading to improvements in infrastructure such as better roads and more guest accommodations. This has spotlighted Adjara’s potential as a prime tourist destination.

Economically, the reliance on agriculture and small-scale trade is giving way to tourism as a key revenue source. Yet, the limited job opportunities and lack of essential services like advanced education and healthcare are pushing the youth towards urban centers in search of a better life.

Socially, the area is experiencing a demographic shift towards an older population, as younger generations leave for cities. This migration is challenging the preservation of traditional ways of life and cultural practices. Efforts are being made to make rural living more appealing and to revitalize communities, aiming to balance development while preserving the unique heritage of Adjara. The future of the region hinges on finding this equilibrium, ensuring its sustainable growth and the well-being of its inhabitants.

Population

Adjara’s mountainous region, with a population of approximately 55,131, presents a stark contrast to urban life. The inhabitants are scattered across small, often remote villages and towns, primarily around the Khulo municipality. Their lives deeply intertwine with agriculture and livestock, which form the foundation of their daily existence.

It’s interesting to note that the majority of Adjara’s mountain residents don’t settle in the main villages like Khulo, Keda, and Shuakhevi. Instead, they live in smaller, more isolated settlements, some of which consist of only a few households. These communities are largely made up of the elderly, over 60 years old, and children under 12. The younger generation frequently moves to urban centers in pursuit of better educational and employment opportunities, leaving behind a demographic skewed towards the very young and the elderly.

Religion

Adjara’s history is deeply influenced by its past under Ottoman rule, which explains why most of its current residents are Sunni Muslims, despite being ethnically and culturally Georgian.

While in Batumi, the religious landscape is quite diverse, with an increasing number of people embracing Christianity. However, in the mountainous areas of Adjara, Islam remains the predominant faith.

A unique feature of upper Adjara are its distinctive mosques. They’re often cube-shaped and constructed from wood and metal, standing out as some of the simplest mosques seen. Some of them are truly interesting though as they are built fully from wood and have a colourful inside.

But keep in mind, you’re in a place with a Soviet past, so locals in upper Adjara aren’t your typical Muslims. They’re pretty open to enjoying a bit of local wine or chacha. Although some villages, like Ghorjomi, hold onto a more conservative and strict interpretation.

To be honest, we hardly realized we were in a predominantly Muslim area until the mullah’s call echoed through the valley. Hearing it for the first time was genuinely magical.

Nature

The Adjaran mountains, part of the Minor Caucasus range, feature peaks averaging 2,000 to 2,500 meters, with Mount Kann being the highest at 3,007 meters. These mountains are covered with forests that span 186,965 hectares, mostly above 1,000 meters elevation, comprising mainly deciduous trees like beeches and oaks, alongside coniferous varieties such as spruces, firs, and pines.

The region is rich in wildlife, including bears, wolves, deer, lynxes, and jackals, showcasing the area’s robust biodiversity.

A notable product of Adjara is its Jara honey, distinctively produced in tree trunk hives. This ancient beekeeping technique contributes to the health of bee populations and ensures the production of high-quality honey. Bees gather nectar from the diverse plant life in the high-altitude forests, creating a honey that’s rich in flavor and nutritional value. Jara honey is renowned for its unique taste, reflecting the natural diversity of Adjara’s landscapes.

Weather

The weather in mountainous Adjara presents a fascinating contrast to its coastal counterpart. Known for its humid conditions and extended periods of rain along the coast, Adjara is also the recipient of the highest rainfall in Georgia and the Caucasus region. However, as you ascend into the mountains, the climate tells a different story.

Interestingly, mountainous Adjara experiences up to three times less rainfall than Batumi. This is because most clouds, originating from the coast, release much of their moisture before reaching the higher elevations. As a result, the weather improves the further up you go. Even during rainy spells, the cloud formations in the mountains create a mystical scenery, with views above, within, or below the clouds.

Winter brings its own spectacle, with snow reaching depths of up to 2 meters in the higher areas, and record snowfalls exceeding 3 meters! This seasonal variation adds to the unique charm of mountainous Adjara’s climate.

Folk festival

Shuamtoba

If you’re exploring Upper Adjara, the Shuamtoba Festival in Beshumi is a must-visit. It’s where Georgian culture comes alive with horse racing, wrestling, folk dancing, and singing. The festival is a whirlwind of activities, all happening at once, making you wish you could be in multiple places at once.

At Shuamtoba, you’ll find yourself walking between the song and dance area and the spots designated for wrestling and horse racing. The festival doesn’t have a strict schedule; it starts when it starts, usually around early afternoon. It’s a mix of athletic prowess and cultural showcase. Horse races down the mountain, wrestlers battling it out, and folk dancers and singers taking the stage, all create a vibrant atmosphere.

There is no official webpage but if you are in Adjara at this time you should for sure go!

You can contact the tourism information centre of Khulo in order to know the exact dates: + 995 577 90 90 15

Dates: first weekend of August
Location: Beshumi

Places to visit

Ranked according to must visit

Khikhani fortress

My absolute favorite spot in mountainous Adjara has got to be the Khikhani Fortress, also called the Khirkhati Fortress or the stronghold of the Abuseridze family. Picture this: a medieval fortress perched high up at 2,200 meters, right on the edge where Georgia meets Turkey, in the upper part of Tkhilvana in Khulo.

Nobody’s really sure when they first laid stones to build Khikhani, but the smart folks reckon it was sometime between the 10th and 13th centuries. This wasn’t just any old pile of rocks; it was a key player in Adjara’s defense strategy. Its spot was chosen with the utmost care, having only one way in on the southeast side, making it a tough nut to crack. It also served as a mighty fine hideout for the local bigwigs back in the day.

Now, getting up there is a bit of a trek – takes about an hour and it’s pretty sharp going – but, believe me, the scenes from the top are the kind you won’t forget in a hurry!

Tago cable car

Just three hours from Batumi, in the Adjara mountains, lies a village that’s home to our Glamping site, accessible via the Khulo cable car. This cable car, connecting Khulo to Tago, is the second-longest free span in Europe and a key reason we chose Tago for our Glamping. Built in 1985 and spanning 1,919 meters, it offers a unique ride over the Adjaristskali River gorge, 350 meters up, without any support pillars.

The cable car experience, blending thrilling views with a touch of adventure, adds to Tago’s charm and was a major factor in why we fell in love with the location. Despite initial nerves, the journey quickly becomes a highlight, showcasing the natural beauty surrounding our Glamping site. It’s an essential part of the magic here, making the arrival not just travel but an unforgettable part of your stay.

Welcome to a place where adventure begins with the ride!

Shuamta lakes

The Shuamta lakes up in the mountains of Khulo, Adjara, are amazing. They sit way up high at 2,150 meters, surrounded by green stuff everywhere. There are five of them: three big ones where you can do lots of exploring and two little ones that are super cute. Just take an hour’s walk from Beshumi through the Shuamta village pastures, and you’re there.

The biggest lake is awesome for chilling with a picnic, jumping in for a swim, or camping out under the stars. It’s peaceful and feels like you’re miles away from everything, but you still get that cool mountain vibe of Adjara.

To get to these lakes, you’ve got two choices: hike for two hours from Tkhilvana, close to the cool Khikhani fortress, or if you’re not into walking, a 45-minute drive in a 4×4 does the trick. Either way, getting there is part of the fun and makes the lakes feel like a real adventure.

Ghorjomi mosque

The Ghorjomi mosque stands out as Georgia’s largest wooden mosque, central to a lively community and accompanied by a madrasa for students. Following the reconstruction of a minaret lost in the Soviet era, the interior was revived using the original designs as inspiration, although with some loss in detail.

Decorated with vibrant murals, including distinctive corn patterns and an Ottoman steam ship at the entrance, the mosque is a showcase of color and detail. It features a large central dome, flanked by four smaller domes, all supported by massive wooden columns, demonstrating exceptional engineering and artistic skill. The ceiling, painted in vivid green, and a painting of the mosque itself beside iconic Islamic images inside, reflect the community’s pride in this unique and beautiful place of worship.

Green lake

Green Lake is located in Adjara, Khulo municipality, in the northern part of the Arsiani ridge, surrounded by huge green and coniferous mountains. The lake has a unique green color, which is why it was called that. The lake is located near the Goderzi pass at an altitude of 2133m, from sea level. There is also a balneological resort Beshumi nearby.

The green lake attracts with its beauty, tranquility, and the indescribable green color of the water and creates a desire to return here again to observe this nature for a long time.

The green lake is easily accessible from the Goderdzi ski resort. Recently there is a new road. In our honest opinion the road to the lake is more interesting than lake itself but nevertheless it’s an amazing place to visit have a picnic and a swim.

The arched bridges of upper Adjara

Whilte these bridges are impressive you won’t take a long time to see them.

The unique arched bridges, throughout upper Adjara you will find arched bridges which often date back to the XVI-XVIII centuries. They are build from stone of uneven sizes and lime mortar. The longest one spans up to 35.9 meters and is quite impressive as it does not have any supporting pillars. While some of the bridges got damaged due to floods, invasions and landslides. Many survived the test of time which attest to the skills and craftmanship put in building them. They were the lifelines for many of the Adjaran villages and to this day some of them still are used daily by the locals.

Most interesting bridges:

Stone arch bridge in Dandalo (longest)
Earth Bridge in Keda (in the forest)
Makhuntseti Bridge (most accesible)

Skhalta monastery

Skhalta Monastery, tucked away in mountainous Adjara, stands as a rare gem of medieval architecture, with the Skhalta Virgin Church as its crown jewel. This single-nave hall-type church, dating back to an uncertain era, has sparked debates among researchers about its origins, suggesting it could have been built anywhere from the 10th to the 13th century. While details about its construction are scarce, the connection to Queen Tamar and the mid-13th century is a tale many hold dear, supported by the unique frescoes from the 14th and 15th centuries that adorn its walls, hinting at a blend of ancient and Byzantine influences, restored in the 1990s.

The monastery is shrouded in mystery and legend, notably one about Queen Tamar who, facing enemy invasions, supposedly sought refuge in Khikhani Fortress and used a hidden path to pray at Skhalta Church. Adding to the intrigue, visitors today might stumble upon baskets filled with human bones within the church, remains of the local community from over the centuries. The reason they’re kept in baskets rather than buried remains unknown, sparking curiosity and speculation. Could it be a lack of space, or is there more to the story? If you’re ever in Adjara, maybe you can unravel this mystery.

How to get around

Car rental

In our opinion the best way to get around anywhere in Georgia is by renting a good 4×4 car. This will get you to places that you would other wise never get or well at least it would be difficult. Crazy fact? The most rental companies have limits on where you can drive even with an off-road car. They exclude the real off-road roads, ridiculous right? Good we found a company that has cars where you can go anywhere!

Cost: 50 – 100 euro per day

Marshutka (minibus)

Another cost effective way to travel and experience the way locals get around is by taking the local marshrutka’s. Keep in mind these rides can give you quite some adrenaline as most marshrutka drivers think they are on a F1 racetrack. Often they play or Georgian Adjaran music or Russian prison music, so well it ads to the feeling of being far away.

Price to get to Khulo: 10 gel

Taxi

The most comfortable option is for sure to take a taxi. When in Batumi you can get a taxi with one of the main taxi apps. Our favorite one is Bolt.

Untill Khulo the prices range from 100 – 150 gel.

Bolt

Hitchhiking

For the more adventurous travelers that have time on their hands we recommend hitchhiking. This obviously isn’t for everyone but it’s one of the best ways to get to know the real local authentic current culture (not the touristy one). Just be prepared that you might arrive drunk at your destination.

How to hitchhike to upper Adjara?

1. Take a minibus or taxi until Khelvachauri (on the outskirts of Batumi)
2. Start hitchiking

Where to stay

There’s a whole bunch of places to stay, and we’ve narrowed it down to our top picks based on our own experiences.

Glamping Tago - best atmosphere

Location: Khulo – village Tago

Naturally, we’re a bit biased, but we truly believe our glamping spot deserves the top spot on this list. Why? Because it’s crafted with a heap of love and passion. We wanted to create a space that brings people together, inspired by our own travels where we met some incredible folks. That’s the heart and soul of Glamping Tago. It’s more than just a place to stay; it’s a cozy corner in mountainous Adjara where you’re bound to meet interesting people and make memories.

Next to that there are of course the amazing views, sauna, delicious food, campfire, morning yoga sessions and free coffee and tea!

Perfect for

Meeting interesting people
Amazing views
Good service
Relaxation
Connection with nature

Oda Tago - most authentic

Location: Khulo – village Tago

Looking for that authentic local vibe? Irina, our fantastic cook, recently opened her guesthouse, Oda, right here in Tago. It’s nestled in one of those charming wooden Adjaran houses that give Tago its unique, cozy feel. Don’t expect luxury, but do expect a warm welcome and a genuine Adjaran experience. Plus, you’re always welcome to swing by our Glamping Tago for a chat around the campfire!

Next to Irina her guesthouse there are some other local guesthouses in Tago which I’ll link down bellow.

Hill in - best for solitude

Location: Dandalo

If you’re after a quiet escape with good views, Hill in might just be your spot. The owners have poured their heart and soul into creating a welcoming space. Each cottage offers privacy and breathtaking views, perfect for those moments when you just want to unwind away from everyone else. Though it’s a bit pricier, opting for a hut over a dome is well worth the extra for the privacy and comfort.

Chateaux Iveri - best wine

Location:

While in general hotels like these are not my cup of tea, I am sure that some of you will absolutely love this place. Chateaux Iveri is located closer to Batumi and has a winery, a good restaurant and great views. While we have never slept there it is our favourite place to stop by on the way to Khulo for some delicious food or iced coffee, yummie!

It’s a great place for those of you that love wine and want some more comfort.

Ambassadori - most luxurious

While big 5 star hotels are normally not our cup of tea, this one actually is, especially in summer. Why? Because it’s a winter resort so in summer there is almost no-one and the prices are acceptable. They have a great pool/small spa with views over the mountains.

Keep in mind Goderdzi itself is not very aesthetically pleasing and you need a 4×4 to reach it. We recommend it mainly for people who are driving from or to Akhaltsikhe. It’s a great stop after some long hours on horrible roads.

Note: they are at the moment improving the road from Akhaltsikhe to Goderdzi, the other part from Khulo to Goderdzi is still horrible though.

Where to eat

Yurtalicious (Glamping Tago)

Yurtalicious is the restaurant of our Glamping. We are a vegetarian restaurant in the Adjaran mountains, serving a mix of local and European cuisine. If you are not staying the night with us, we recommend taking the cable car and join us for lunch. It’s the perfect day tour from Batumi. You can enjoy delicious food, good wine and amazing views here!

Chateaux Iveri (on the way to upper Adjara)

As said in the previous part, Chateaux Iveri has a great restaurant with good wines and great choice. We honestly prefer the restaurant over the hotel. They have a good indoor and outdoor seating place so you can stop here at any weather condition. Their outdoor terrace is cosy and has great views over the valley and vineyards.

Jabvni (fresh trout)

One of the unique features of the Adjaran mountains are it’s trout farms. Due to the abundance of mountain water Adjara is perfect for growing trout. As the water can just naturally flow making it a natural filtration.

At Jabvni you can eat this trout fresh. You can even pick your own fish out of the pond and they will BBQ it for you. They only have seating place outside though.

So for the fish lover under you this is the place to go!

When to visit

While the season in mountainous Adjara ranges from April to November, our favourite periods are spring and autumn.

During spring (April – June) everything awakes form it winter sleep and the whole area is covered in flowers and lush fields. On top of that the weather is warm but not too hot like in July and August. Last but not least the sunsets are the best during this period!

Just like in spring during autumn (October – November) the whole area once again changes in a completely different colour pallet and it’s ideal for a cosy get away. While during this period it does rain more, the clouds add an extra layer of magic as often you’ll be above, in between or in them.

There is also the possibility to visit during winter for a winter wonder landscape but then you will be limited to the Goderdzi ski resort.

Activities

Uchko canyon

The Uchko canyon is in our opinion the best experience you can have inf Adjara if you are looking for adventure. Not just because of the Canyon but because of the journey itself as well. The route to the top of the canyon is a quite extreme off-road route that goes high in the Adjaran mountains and offers incredible views. The best thing off all? You’ll be standing in the back off an 4×4 truck the last part. This way you can enjoy the incredible views while at the same time getting some adrenaline. Keep in that’s just the start. The canyoning still needs to start. The canyoning itself is accessible but absolutely stunning you are going trough a jungle like canyoning and feel like you are somewhere deep in the rainforest.

Off-road jeep tour to Khikhani fortress

As said before in our opinion the place that should be on the top of your list to visit is the Khikhani fortress. That’s exactly the reason why we organize a tour that will take you to Khikhani fortress. The best thing off all you won’t only see Khikhani but the Shuamta lakes as well. Meaning in this one tour you’ll see the best of Adjara!

Hiking in upper Adjara?

Now comes the big question is upper Adjara interesting for hiking? While it’s obviously difficult to compete with the rest of Georgia, I do think that there are some amazing hikes that can be done in Adjara and personally I had some of the best hiking experiences in all of Georgia here.

Why?

First of all when hiking here you are hiking in one of the least discovered most authentic area’s of Geogia. You will really be hiking trough places where you’ll only find locals and no other tourists. People here will be surprised and genuily happy to see you. It just feel so much more real than other parts of Georgia.

Next to the authenticity I do think that the Adjaran mountains offer some spectacular views. While they might not be so high as in the greater Caucasus the land scape is quite dramatic giving you similar and in my opinion even better feelings. There are also many mountain lakes in which you can swim.

Adjaran mountain top trail:
Khikhani fortress - Shuamta lakes - Beshumi

If there is one hike which I would recommend to anyone it would be this one. This hike has so much to offer that it’s difficult to start.

First of all there is Khikhani fortress one of my most favourite places in all of Georgia. A castle that was build in this location in that time by the one and only Queen Tamar just leaves you in awe not even mentioning the spectacular views which will just make you feel small and on top of the world.

We’ve written a whole blogpost just about Khikhani fortress so feel free to check that out.

Next up are the shuamta lakes located at 2000+ meters. They are the perfect mountain lakes to take a swim, or even to put up camp. There you’ll feel like you travel back while at the same time visiting another world.

Last but not least there is Beshumi which is a typical mountain resort. Well resort might be the wrong word it’s a place where a lot of the locals migrate to during the summer months to let the cattle graze from the delicious fresh mountain grass. This is probably one of the most Georgian places that you will ever visit.

Time needed: 1-2 days

Where to sleep:
Both at Khikhani fortress and in Beshumi you’ll find local guesthouses where you can sleep. Next to that if you are the camping kind of person you can perfectly camp on top of Khikhani fortress and at the Shuamta lakes (recommended).

If you’re not up for the walk let us know then we can arrange a jeep tour for you!

Glamping Tago is a small start-up set on a mission to enhance mindful traveling, providing equal care and love to our guests, environment and team members.

We do so, by creating a comfortable space in one of the most authentic places in Adjara.

Turning it into a getaway where people can reconnect with themselves, step into adventures and begin new stories.

Map

Coordinates of this location not found

If you have any questions or would like to add some information to this post,
feel free to send us a message!

Mountainous Adjara the hidden gem of Georgia

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